The Triangle

Issue date: 11/20/09 Section: Arts & Entertainment

Media Credit: Beer photo and digital editing Mike Arrison The Triangle Frodo photo New Line Cinemas/MCT Campus

It's not uncommon to find organic or independent companies these days. Over the past few years, it seems like more and more have been springing up all over the world. One thing that is still rather rare, however, is finding an independently owned and run company that has been in continuous operation for over 200 years. Samuel Smith has the distinction of being the oldest independently owned brewery in Yorkshire, England. The beer I am bringing to you this week is their version Yorkshire Stingo, a testament to their commitment to brewing traditions.

Samuel Smith was founded in 1847 when cattle dealer and butcher, Sam Smith, fronted his son, John, money to purchase the failing Tadcaster Brewery which had been operating since 1758. John partnered with his brother William to begin John Smith's Brewery. When John left the company, a joint custodianship between John and the third Smith brother, Samuel, was formed. John eventually bought Samuel out and moved the operation. Samuel eventually reopened the original Samuel Smith's and ran as competition to John Smith's. It remains the only independent brewery in Tadcaster. Unbelievably, the yeast strain and well water used to brew their ales has remained unchanged since about 1900.

English Strong Ale, or Stingo, as it was called in the eighteenth century, is a form of pale ale. Usually, it has higher alcohol content than the usual pub session beers, but less than that of a barley wine, placing it at about seven percent on average. The style was derived simply because pale malt was becoming more common and cheaper to produce than in the past. The invention of the hydrometer allowed specific gravity to be properly measured and, therefore, better control over the color and sugars in the beer could be maintained. Patrons to a pub who had a stronger desire for beer and the coin to purchase it would want something more powerful than the standard session bitter, mild or porter. English strong ale could be aged for quite some time, driving up its cost as well. Often times, the beer developed and oxidized character similar to sherry or port with a smooth oakiness.

Although this is a stronger beer suitable for a tulip glass, it was a common sight in 19th century English pubs. That would make the English pint glass a far better choice. I couldn't abide an anachronistic inconsistency, now could I? The English pint serves as the ultimate pub glass, minus the sturdiness of the shaker. It has a bulge or sometimes an outward slope near the top to maintain a larger surface area and collect some aroma. Usually, they have a marking to designate one pint or have that as the maximum capacity.

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