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Bocks battle for best liquid-bread replacement

Mike Partel

Issue date: 4/3/09 Section: Arts & Entertainment
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Spring is upon us once again, break is over and classes are just starting up. Many students are hitting up the gym to shuffle off that little extra winter warmth. Several hundred years ago, however, many people were entering into the season of Lent and with that came the Lenten Fast. These days, you usually find people giving up their favorite foods or sweets, if anything at all, but back when a full-on fast was common, calories had to be found elsewhere. In step, the Minim friars from the Neudeck ob der Au cloister of Munich, Germany, rather than giving up grains altogether, they began brewing a style of beer called "bock" as a liquid-bread replacement.
Traditionally, the beer was for personal consumption by the monks but was sold publicly on holidays, pushing the beer into the local spotlight. When the brewery closed in 1799, it took until 1861 before it was reopened by Franz Xaver Zacherl. His flagship product was named "Salvator," Latin for savior.
Salvator is considered to be a doppelbock, a stronger version of the traditional bock style brewed by the monks. Bock itself means goat in German, which is why it is linked to the style in general. These beers are supposed to be dark lagers, with residual malty sweetness and low bitterness. The recipe used today is almost the same as in the monks' time as Paulaner had its trademark, Salvator, patented in 1896.
The beer is listed as a "starkbier," or dark beer (specifically a dark lager) style - late winter/early Spring beer, obviously ideal for the holidays, with a 7.9 percent ABV. As I always stress, glasses are rather important, so try to use a narrow stem glass or go all out with a ceramic stein! The stein is actually a pretty useful choice if you have access, as the cap tends to catch aromas. I sided with a simple stem glass that was able to show off the lingering off-white head and pleasantly clean, brown color. It leaves a bit of a mild, fruit aroma with a splash of biscuity Munich malt.
As you drink it, Salvator has quite a filling body, composed of caramel sweetness and hints of bread-like toastiness. This is really what you would expect someone who needs bread but cannot have it to want. As you finish off the glass, notes of dark fruit, citrus, and limited spicy German hops shine through. This really is a well thought out beverage that has not needed to change over the last 350 years.
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