The Triangle

Issue date: 2/13/09 Section: Arts & Entertainment

Media Credit: Karl Kuchs

Hitting up the West, this week's offering is from the popular Left Hand Brewing Company of Longmont, Colo. Founded by Dick Doore and Eric Wallace four years after Doore received his first homebrew kit from his brother, Left Hand is one of the more prosperous and well known American brewers on the scene - having a combined twenty-four awards from the Great American Beer Festival and World Beer Cup over the course of its 15 years.

During that time, they have heavily invested time and support into their community. Their name is even a tribute to the local Arapahoe tribe led by Chief Niwot (which translates roughly to "Left Hand"). From their initial batch of Sawtooth Ale to today's sampling of Smokejumper, Doore and Wallace's credo has been one of balance. Malty sweetness to hoppy bitterness, every beer is a pleasant and enjoyable experience.

Smokejumper is referred to as a "smoked imperial porter." What this means is that the base style of porter was brewed with a much larger amount of fermentable grains giving stronger flavor and higher alcohol, with this one weighing in at 9.2 percent ABV. The traditional use of imperial comes from the Russian imperial stout. Although many styles use the term, it is not historically accurate. Calling it smoked means that part of the grain bill included a large portion of rauchmalt, which is a German style of malt from Bamberg that has been smoked over beech wood, or in some cases, peat. Typical styles included in the smoked beer class are rauchbier or roggenbier.

Utilizing rauchmalt adds two things. First, a distinct aroma of smoked meat or wood similar to smoked jerky or ham is present. Second, the associated taste of smoked meats and wood can be found. This has the effect of a perceived drying sensation on the tongue, separate from the actual mouthfeel of the beer.

Let's get to the beer itself. Being a strong porter, acceptable glassware can be a large beer mug, pint glass, lager glass, or even a stein. These vessels do splendid jobs of allowing the aroma and flavor to be fully released due to the large mouths. Appearance is not a primary criterion here as the beer style is known for being very dark in general. It is assumed that this beer will focus heavily on aromatics to the point of overshadowing appearance. The bomber pours easily in a black, viscous manner. A very small half-inch, coffee colored head forms, but quickly dissipates, leaving a fine lace around the glass. The beer itself exhibits little carbonation, which is expected.

Continued...

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