Spring Break
Gastro-pub satisfies pallet
Francesca Galarus
Issue date: 10/17/08 Section: Arts & Entertainment
Benjamin Franklin once said, "Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." Kite & Key, a new gastro-pub in Fairmount's Art Museum area, lives by that motto.
The all-embracing beer list is separated by drafts, with local choices from Victory to Yards; imported bottles from Belgium to Mexico; local bottles from the tri-state region; several domestic bottles and the "Usual Suspects" where diners will see Miller, Bud and other brews to be ignored. Of course, the list is not the book you'll see at a place like Monk's, but it is approachable, affordable and well-rounded. I am guessing that this was the exact intention of the owners, two former bartenders from The Bishop's Collar.
After choosing my beverage, Bell's Two Hearted Ale, an IPA from the Michigan brewery, it was time to pay some attention to the food menu. It was slightly smaller, but just as eclectic as the beer list. For beer, this is a great thing, but the food lacked a focus. Appetizers ($4-$8) had regular pub choices like fries and wings alongside items like edamame, corn-on-the-cob and fruit with goat cheese. There were also four salads choices, all $7.50 and all unoriginal.
A wide range of sandwiches ($8-$9) like shrimp po'boys, fish tacos, and a burger encompassed the menu. Plates ($12-$15.50) ranged from simple home-made gnocchi to ribs and chicken confit.
Dining with a friend, we chose three dishes to share, which were brought all at once by our attentive server. The chicken cutlet salad was simple, but surprisingly delicious. The mixed greens were perfectly dressed with ripe tomatoes, and it was all served over a generous portion of chicken Milanese. The spicy pineapple wings were something that I was looking forward to by the description, but they came out coated with a gooey sauce that somehow still left the chicken dry. On top was a "nest" of shredded pickled carrots that were tasty, but added nothing to the dish.
By far, the star of the meal was the dish of tilapia fish tacos. The three medium-sized soft tacos came heaping with dressed cabbage and carrots on top of perfectly cooked and seasoned, slightly crispy white fish. On the side were a fresh tomato and corn salsa with guacamole, which was the only item on the plate that was less than desirable.
The meal left us satisfied, yet not stuffed, and we escaped for under $40 with three dishes and a drink per person. Overall, it was a pleasant experience and I will definitely be returning before the weather turns to sit on the patio and work my way through that beer list ("Usual Suspects" excluded).
Kite & Key is located at 1836 Callowhill St. and is open every day from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. A full menu can be found at www.thekiteandkey.com.
The all-embracing beer list is separated by drafts, with local choices from Victory to Yards; imported bottles from Belgium to Mexico; local bottles from the tri-state region; several domestic bottles and the "Usual Suspects" where diners will see Miller, Bud and other brews to be ignored. Of course, the list is not the book you'll see at a place like Monk's, but it is approachable, affordable and well-rounded. I am guessing that this was the exact intention of the owners, two former bartenders from The Bishop's Collar.
After choosing my beverage, Bell's Two Hearted Ale, an IPA from the Michigan brewery, it was time to pay some attention to the food menu. It was slightly smaller, but just as eclectic as the beer list. For beer, this is a great thing, but the food lacked a focus. Appetizers ($4-$8) had regular pub choices like fries and wings alongside items like edamame, corn-on-the-cob and fruit with goat cheese. There were also four salads choices, all $7.50 and all unoriginal.
A wide range of sandwiches ($8-$9) like shrimp po'boys, fish tacos, and a burger encompassed the menu. Plates ($12-$15.50) ranged from simple home-made gnocchi to ribs and chicken confit.
Dining with a friend, we chose three dishes to share, which were brought all at once by our attentive server. The chicken cutlet salad was simple, but surprisingly delicious. The mixed greens were perfectly dressed with ripe tomatoes, and it was all served over a generous portion of chicken Milanese. The spicy pineapple wings were something that I was looking forward to by the description, but they came out coated with a gooey sauce that somehow still left the chicken dry. On top was a "nest" of shredded pickled carrots that were tasty, but added nothing to the dish.
By far, the star of the meal was the dish of tilapia fish tacos. The three medium-sized soft tacos came heaping with dressed cabbage and carrots on top of perfectly cooked and seasoned, slightly crispy white fish. On the side were a fresh tomato and corn salsa with guacamole, which was the only item on the plate that was less than desirable.
The meal left us satisfied, yet not stuffed, and we escaped for under $40 with three dishes and a drink per person. Overall, it was a pleasant experience and I will definitely be returning before the weather turns to sit on the patio and work my way through that beer list ("Usual Suspects" excluded).
Kite & Key is located at 1836 Callowhill St. and is open every day from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. A full menu can be found at www.thekiteandkey.com.
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