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Brews Clues

Dennis Mongello

Issue date: 2/15/08 Section: Arts & Entertainment
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Enjoy a chilled mug of  Two Hearted Ale with friends at your local brewery or bar.
Media Credit: Evan Rosen
Enjoy a chilled mug of Two Hearted Ale with friends at your local brewery or bar.

I don't always like beers with strange names because you never know what you are getting. This might be fine for an original style of beer like Southern Tier's Gemini, but in the case of Bell's Brewery's Two Hearted Ale, it's just a bit confusing. I'll admit, it's a pretty good name, and I wish it had something to do with Valentine's Day, but the fish on the label tells me that the name of this beer does nothing to symbolize two hearts coming together for love, or for any reason for that matter. It's just your standard India Pale Ale, and it has a fish on the label. Not hops which might give you a clue to the flavor inside, but a fish. Another distinctive feature about Two Hearted Ale is that it is from Kalamazoo, Mich. That's a funny word. Kalamazoo.

It starts off with a strong earthy smell. It is not at all fishy, like the label would suggest. The hops smell flowery but that is backed by grass notes. The smell is strong and boozy overall. It's a strong smell for a strong beer. It's a pretty good scent too. It is how an IPA should smell, and many do.

As the beer pours, it leaves a thick, stubborn, soapy white head that dissipates slowly and clings to the side of the glass as the rest of the beer goes down. It is protecting a translucent copper body; the color is wonderful. The color of the collar also contrasts well with the rest of the beer.

The taste is dry and astringent. The flavor profile here is all hops, all the time. It starts and finishes with a sharp jolt of bitterness, but in between is totally smooth. It has a citrus flavor, but it's not sweet, like a grapefruit, and there are earthy flavors there too, like pine. The flavor is great. The aftertaste is nice and long and the initial bitterness is wonderfully balance. However, the rest of the beer is a little subdued. While it tastes great, it feels as if the volume is just turned too low. That said, this is still better than your average IPA.

Two Hearted Ale is very bubbly. The bubbles climb up the side of glass when it is first poured and keep coming well after you are finished pouring it. It is big bodied to match the big alcohol. It's a bit too bitter to chug, but it is great in gulps and can be savored in sips. You can taste the alcohol though and there is a little burn, but everything is together in balance. It is strong enough to stand up to almost any food. However a beer like this goes best with something pungent, like blue cheese, or something spicy, like Thai food. What more can I say about food pairings? Maybe you should try it out with that fish on the label.
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JT

posted 2/15/08 @ 3:57 PM EST

The beer is named after the Two Hearted River in northern Michigan that was made famous in the Earnest Hemingway story "Big Two Hearted River." It's a literary reference. (Continued…)

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