Valentine's Day: not just for couples
Nancy Lan
Issue date: 2/8/08 Section: Features
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Money can't buy love, so spare your change and buy some inexpensive eats instead…
Chris' Jazz Café 1421 Sansom St.; Philadelphia, Pa.; (215) 568-3131
The little dingy alleyway on which Chris' Jazz Café sits is easily my favorite street in Philadelphia.
The minute you step on to the block, jazz flows out on to the street and surrounds you, drawing you in. Chris' boasts very talented, and sometimes pretty unknown, talent, and it is obvious that the musicians love what they're doing. No matter what night of the week you go, you're sure to hear some great music.
Usually, jazz clubs are a spot to go to when you want a night of music, and food is an afterthought. Chris' doesn't subscribe to this type of belief, however, as their food is delicious and well-crafted. One word of advice - come here with a group of friends and get an assortment of appetizers instead of entrees. Order from the appetizer / late night menu ($5-12); although the entrees are good, the appetizer menu usually runs a bit cheaper, but still offers yummy food.
Even before you dig in to a dish, it is clear that it will not disappoint. Chris' food is beautifully and almost artistically presented, and we do, after all, eat with our eyes first.
The crispy beignet of goat cheese is my favorite; it is unconventional, as the goat cheese is nestled inside a spring roll wrapper. It is prepared just right, paired with a chilled sugar beet salad. The sweetness of the beets complemented the tart goat cheese very well, and the cold-hot combination of the beignet and salad was interesting.
For some feel-good food, get the trio of fries. While the regular french fries are nothing special, and the fried onions are only a few steps up from French's, the sweet potato fries are amazing. Usually, sweet potato fries can run on the soggy side, but at Chris', they are crispy on the outside without being burnt, and just the right temperature on the inside. They're both sweet and savory, and are miles above other sweet potato fries I've tried.
The fried calamari is pretty solid as well, and again, great for sharing. The calamari is accompanied by a roasted garlic dipping sauce, which is a bit more inventive and flavorful than the usual marinara.
Try the whole menu - everything is pretty solid, and definitely goes miles beyond regular bar or lounge food. Though the food at Chris' is very good, it's the overall experience that you should go for. Sometimes, silence is golden, and at Chris' it feels just as good when you're chatting with your friends as when you're closing your eyes, not speaking a word, and just feeling the jazz.
… Then again, why not treat yourself?
Lolita 106 S. 13th St.; Philadelphia, Pa.; (215) 546-7100
Walking by Lolita on the street, it's easy to not notice it.
After all, it is dimly lit, and the entrance is shrouded by a velvet curtain. But when you look closer, its clandestine nature only makes it more appealing.
The first whiff I got upon stepping inside was utterly incredible. There were so many spices in perfect harmony that I couldn't even identify a single one, and my mouth instantly began to water.
Before ordering your food, though, be sure to check out their margaritas. Or, I should say, freshly squeezed margarita mixes ($10 - $12 per pitcher). Lolita is BYOT (T as in tequila), which only adds to the charm. Try the blood orange and mint margarita mix, which is tangy and refreshing.
Lolita's appetizers ($8 - $10) start the meal off just right, with fresh and intricate flavors. The guacamole sticks to the basics and really gets it right. It is topped with jicama, which is an interesting substitute for raw onion. Lolita serves the guacamole with a delicious assortment of malanga de coco, plantain and corn tortilla chips, which are flavorful in and of themselves. The sautéed octopus appetizer was very tasty as well, paired well with tart and sweet flavors of pickled tomatillo and green mango.
When it comes to Lolita's entrees ($18 - $24), I become very tongue-tied - they are all so good. Each cut of meat is more succulent than the last, and the spice accents on each dish are exquisite. My favorite was perhaps the pork chop, which was an intense combination of sweet and spicy, since it is marinated in a mix of sugarcane, dried and smoked peppers, and is finished with a smoky rhubarb glaze. The meat itself was very juicy and each bite packed lots of flavor.
Lolita's portions are pretty generous, so you'll probably be full by the end of the first two courses. However, if you have room for dessert ($7), or even if you don't, try the pecan cheesecake with goat's milk caramel and a dark chocolate-ancho chile crust. Neither the caramel nor chocolate are overpowering; rather, they work in perfect synergy with the creamy cheesecake and candied pecans. After the bold flavors in the rest of your dishes, this dessert will round out your meal with a smooth, mellow ending.
** Indecisive about what to get, but want to treat yourself? Try Lolita's Valentine's Day four-course special tasting menu for $50 per person.**
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