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Brews Clues

This week's Ale: Unibroue Chambly Noire

Dennis Mongello

Issue date: 11/30/07 Section: Arts & Entertainment
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The dark heavy color compliments the flavor and intensity of this beer quite well. The Chambly carries a slight sweetness but the yeast is still quite apparent.
Media Credit: www.unibroue.com
The dark heavy color compliments the flavor and intensity of this beer quite well. The Chambly carries a slight sweetness but the yeast is still quite apparent.

Though not necessarily defined by revolution, the Chambly Noire is well complimented by dropping a Belfast Bomber.
Media Credit: www.unibroue.com
Though not necessarily defined by revolution, the Chambly Noire is well complimented by dropping a Belfast Bomber.

In the interest of full disclosure, I should begin with a disclaimer: I don't really like stouts. Yet here I am, actually reviewing one. If it were up to me, I probably would not have bought Unibroue's Chambly Noire if I knew it was a stout. After all, it says "dark ale" on the label, and Unibroue certainly does make some tasty "dark ales" (just try a Trois Pistoles). Sure, I can enjoy a pint of the black every now and then, even if it isn't St. Patty's day, but I find the overall experience pretty boring. I know some people love them though, and even though it's not my favorite style of beer, I can assure you that I can review this without bias.

Another thing that drew me to the beer was its name. I know that's a bit superficial, but I find it interesting that Unibroue has a beer called "Blanche de Chambly" in addition to this "Chambly Noire." I feel like the brewers are trying to create some sort of Taoist tension between these beers, lest someone mix them and create Chambly Grise. But enough about philosophy, let's get to the beer.

The beer looks black as night. No surprise given its black name, but it's a nice, sharp contrast from a lot of other beers. The head is an inch high pillow of beige that dissipates quickly and leaves behind no lacing. It was at this point I realized that I was drinking a stout. I was just mostly surprised by the fact that Unibroue, usually a brewer of Belgian ales made a beer in this decidedly non-Belgian style. Anyway, it smells like toffee. Aside from this there are sweet raisins along with bready yeast notes on the nose. The aromas are a little weak overall and not entirely pleasant. That's not to say it smells bad, but it doesn't pop out as a great smelling beer.

It tastes a bit like bread, a holdover from the yeast. It is the most prominent flavor coming from the beer. There is a very slight sweetness on the tip of your tongue as you sip the beer. Then, that is overtaken by a bit of sourness that turns into the big yeast flavor. It looks like a stout and it pretty much tastes like a stout too. They should have just call it a stout on the label. What's important here though is what this beer doesn't taste like: hops. The flavors here are contributed solely from the malts. The intricate blend of malts provides a complex flavor.

The beer is very highly carbonated and full bodied. It almost feels like you are drinking a Coke, except there's less burn in the back of your throat. I would prefer fewer bubbles for this beer, and that's probably my biggest complaint, which is poetically shared with the Blanche de Chambly. While full bodied, the noire is still crisp and refreshing so it goes down easily.

I would pair the Chambly Noire with a thick fish, like a salmon or tuna filet, a mild red meat like lamb, or pork chops. Its mild sourness would match up well with sugary desserts like an ice cream sundae. This is a stout though, what can I say? It would go best with a Belfast Bomber.
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